Sunday, May 27, 2012

RonnieAdventure #0004M2 - Paria Canyon, Coconino County, Arizona

Most people that want to visit a slot canyon in Southwestern United States typically go to Antelope Canyon on the Navajo Reservation near Page, Arizona. Antelope Canyon is very beautiful, and because it is so famous, it is also the most visited and photograph slot canyon in the world. This is definitely not a slot canyon to visit if you like solitude because tourist come in by the bus load and travel through the canyon on staggered tours every few minutes. Therefore, we decided to hike down Buckskin Gulch to Paria Canyon and then follow Paria Canyon to Lees Ferry, a total distance of about 47 miles (not counting side trips). The plan was to leave one vehicle at Lees Ferry and then drive the other vehicle to the Buckskin Gulch trailhead, which is located on the Arizona/Utah border. So, when we invited our new friends to accompany us on part of the trip down Buckskin Gulch, they eagerly accepted the invitation. Since our new friends only wanted to accompany us for half-a-day, they offered to drive our vehicle back to Lees Ferry; so it would be there when we finished the hike and we would not have to drive all the way back to the Buckskin Gulch trailhead just to retrieve our vehicle. This was a win-win for everyone.    

The next morning we left the motel and followed Highway 89a to the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) House Rock Valley Road #1065, and then followed Road #1065 to the Buckskin Gulch trailhead. BLM reported that the road is not maintained and a high-clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle is recommended to successfully navigate the rough, rocky and sandy parts of the road, but we found the road to in fairly good condition and we did not ever have use 4-wheel drive. (We were there in the month of May.) However, I can see where the road would be impassable when wet. 

The hike at Buckskin Gulch trailhead starts in a wide open area, but quickly narrows down to a tight slot canyon that is less than three feet wide in places. The rock is this part of the trip is red in color and the layers in the rock make for great photographs. It is also interesting to look up as you travel through the canyon because in some parts of the canyon there are logs wedged between the canyon walls 30-50 feet above the canyon floor. This is a good reminder of why you do not want to be in a slot canyon during a rain storm.

Buckskin Gulch Narrows 
  

Buckskin Gulch Narrows


        Buckskin Gulch Narrows  

Buckskin Gulch Narrows        

Arriving at the junction with the Wire Pass trail, we stopped and admired some petroglyphs that were left by early inhabitants in the area. From about 200 AD to 1200 AD, the Anasazi occupied this region and then the Paiute people arrived a short time later. Petroglyphs are found throughout the canyons, but no large village sites have ever been discovered; so researchers have concluded that the Native Americans primarily the canyon as a travel route.

Petroglyphs in Buckskin Gulch


Buckskin Gulch               


         Buckskin Gulch Narrows

Shortly after leaving the junction we discovered what we had expected, but had hoped not to find – MUD! Time to put on the water shoes! The mud soon turned to slush and then pools of some really nasty high viscosity liquid. Our friends decided to turn back after crossing through several muddy areas, so we thanked them for driving our vehicle back to Lees Ferry and wished them well on the rest of their journey. We continued on to the confluence with the Paria and a little further down the canyon we discovered a pool of nasty liquid that was about four feet deep. 

Mud in Buckskin Gulch


            Buckskin Gulch

Buckskin Gulch                 

The next morning we left our packs and hiked about a half-mile up the Paria River to Slide Arch, and then retrieved our packs and continued down the canyon. The canyon is considerably wider from this point on, but equally as beautiful. We had been warned to watch for quicksand, but we did not ever encounter any quicksand on the entire trip.

Slide Arch, Paria Canyon


Paria Canyon                

Paria Canyon

                Paria Canyon

Paria Canyon                    


             Paria Canyon

Paria Canyon

Although the total elevation change from the Buckskin Gulch trailhead to Lees Ferry is only about 2,000 feet, the hike passes through seven major geologic formations. The various layers have been exposed by erosion and encompass about 85 million years of geologic time, and each layer provides an opportunity for some really different pictures.

About midway down the canyon we dropped off our packs and made a side trip up a canyon to Wrather Arch. This is the largest arch outside of Utah, with a span of 246 feet, and reported to be one of the top five longest arches in the United States.

Wrather Arch


               Paria Canyon


Paria Canyon                                

The canyon continued to widen as we approached Lees Ferry, but the scenery was still very beautiful. The Hedgehog Cacti and many other wild flowers were in bloom, which added to the beauty of the hike. There were also more petroglyphs in this area and various ruins from early European settlers. Arriving at Lees Ferry, we felt totally exhausted, but continued to be astonished at what we had seen in the past few days. This may have to be a repeat hike!



                  Hedgehog Cactus


Petroglyphs                              




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